Going back in time to revisit the World’s Best of the Best
BY RASHMI UDAY SINGH
Evocative, provocative, memorable and lovable! Ok so I begin with a full disclosure: I am a forever fan of this inspired, genius, lovable and globally loved power couple: Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore. Not just because they are THE leading global force but also because they are superachievers with hearts of gold. They are a beacon of hope and joy.
On receiving the “Icons” award here’s what Massimo says: “But more than anything, this award reminds me of our responsibility. Because once you climb to the top of the mountain, your job is to build a path for others.”
“That’s what we tried to do with Food for Soul, with the Refettorios, with Tortellante, and with every young cook who passed through our kitchen carrying their own dreams,” he adds.
This is quintessential Massimo, sparklingly brilliant and helpful and warm-hearted. A rare combination!
Past 17 years as regional chairperson of World’s 50 Best I have had the good fortune of applauding them at the award ceremonies. I have not only followed but also written about all the multi-faceted work they have been doing... but also volunteered as a waitress in their Refettorio for the homeless in London.
Osteria Francescana...Three Michelin starred, crowned world’s best of the best by World’s 50 Best, it sits in a nondescript backstreet of Modena, Italy.
Here in the small 50-seater, art-filled restaurant the passionate, inspired, philosopher genius Massimo Bottura has been making global culinary history. He explores tradition in evolution, brings the best of the past into the future. Deliciously!
I have been blessed to dine here three times. Each experience made me even more awestruck. I admire the way the maestro keeps challenging the traditions of cuisine, using parody and ironic interpretations of food, Each time he keeps evolving Italian food, inspired by art, music, his family and his travels. Most importantly, his food remains deeply Italian: a joyful celebration of Emilia-Romagna – his home province of northern Italy. Space constrains me from sharing my entire five hour, 15 course mind-blowing experiences where maestro Massimo’s thoughts become edible.
Let’s begin with Osteria Francescana’s world-famous theatrical dessert called Oops! I Broke The Lemon Tart. I love the sheer gumption, wit and, of course, flavours and textures. Not only does the especially designed plate look like its broken but even the pieces of the tart are carefully placed to look as though they are broken, cubes of lemon, bergamot jelly, spiced apple, a few drops of chilli and lemon oil and salted and honeyed capers with a splash of light and foamy, lemon and limoncello zabaglione. It’s not just a visual treat, but the balanced sweet and tart citrus flavours dazzle.
The iconic Five Ages of Parmigiano Regianno Cheese is the stuff legends are made of contrasting temperatures, textures, aging from 24 months to 40 months – all topped off by “breath of air” deriving from a broth of Parmigiano rind from aged cheese.
Ooh that Ceasar Salad in Bloom is actually a salad which makes for a refreshing pre-dessert kissed with sweetness. These were some of the iconic dishes and, since then the maestro keeps evolving, you need to get a taste of history yourself. Booking months in advance. But then which infidel said getting into paradise is easy?
Casa Maria Luigia...the world’s most unique hotel (if we can call that amazing 27 or is it more room?) a hotel. Deeply personalised and hospitable named after Massimo’s grandmother surrounded by gardens, trees, swimming pool, vegetable gardens. It has its own vineyards and the amazing wood-fired Al Gatto Verde restaurant led by the brilliant Jessica Rosval. And, I must add, the world’s best breakfast is served here too.
Massimo and Lara’s Casa Maria Luigia is a must stay. If you can’t get a booking in Osteria Francescana (which is a short drive away) you can stay in the Casa and opt for Osteria’s iconic dishes. There is more, much more – Gucci Osteria (I have dined in the one in Los Angeles and Milano), Osteria Francescana’s Refettorio for the homeless where I volunteered as a waitress in London and several of his books e.g. the trailblazing Bread is Gold, Slow Food, Fast Cars and Never Trust a Skinny Chef. Of course, we agree... we don’t trust this skinny chef, we admire him, love him – and get inspired by him!
STOP PRESS! Please pardon this sketchy hurried column. I am writing it on my phone in the car as the incredible, multi-talented dynamo Shafquat Ali’s Hospitality Horizon is going to press and I am thrilled to dash off my second column; my debut column was all about the legendary Ferran Adria’s iconic El Bulli where I dined in 2007 before it closed down. The best of the best. Of, course.
