Peter Hu? is the go-to restaurant for Pan-Asian fine-dining in Kolkata
BY RUKSHANA A. KAPADIA
Peter Hu?, the third brand from the house of Mocambo and Peter Cat and a new brand from the Kotharis after almost five decades, certainly carries both the advantages and burdens of a deliciously successful legacy. The advantage of patronage from existing guests of the sister brands and the burden of creating your own identity and reputation. Peter Hu? and owner Siddharth Kothari tick both off with great aplomb.
Sid, as he is affectionately referred to, has carried forward his legacy of launching a new restaurant with every generation of his family. Mocambo was founded by his grandfather Shivji V. Kothari in 1956 and its popularity till date is iconic, Peter Cat was started by his father Nitin Kothari in 1975 is equally popular.
Peter Hu? was launched by Sid in 2021 and offers its patrons a Pan-Asian fine dining experience featuring Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian and Malaysian in its menu.
With Continental and Indian cuisine being hugely popular in Mocambo and Peter Cat, Sid was naturally inclined toward serving a Chinese menu for the new brand. However, he did not want to do the usual Kolkata Tangra Chinese but a more authentic version.
“I’ve always had a love for Asian cuisine and culture, having spent time both living and travelling extensively within East and South East Asia fuelled this love. It felt but natural to go the mixed Asian way when the opportunity arose with Peter Hu?” explained Sid.
Peter Hu? has a seating capacity of 150 covers over two levels and the interiors of the century-old property were done by Sid himself. I love the gorgeous teal antique style banisters and railings on the baroque stairs going up to the mezzanine level and the brick red walls which provide the perfect setting for the beautiful bright seating with the floral accents on the chairs and the cheerful golden hues from the lamps hanging overhead. The interiors are as chic and stylish as Sid himself.
Having dined there a number of times I must confess that I adore their Pan-Asian fare but what makes Peter Hu? even more attractive to the diner in me is the sensible price point without diluting the fine-dine flair and flavour.
Start your meal with the Asian Green Salad with green apple, kaffir lime, sweet chilli and caramelised peanuts topped with crispy vermicelli rice noodles in summer and the Seafood Soup with Prawn and Bhetki, lemon grass, shitake mushroom, carrots with an egg drop is so deliciously in the cooler months.
I am a huge advocate of the ‘small plate’ concept of dining because it allows one to sample a greater selection or enjoy the option of appetisers and then head directly to dessert. The small plates are the highlight for me – Robata, Sushi Rolls, Baos and Dimsums are all marvellous. My recommendations would be: Spicy Chicken Bao, Brie Cheese and Truffle Dumpling (highly recommended), Peking Chicken Dimsum, Shitake Mushroom with Truffle Sushi Roll, Prawn Tempura Sushi Roll and the Silken Tofu and Straw Mushrooms.
The main course options are equally delectable with Pad Thai, Pad Krapow, Burmese Khao Suey, Thai Green Curry and Laksa among many others including popular staples. I love that this wonderful mix of Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Malaysian comes together in such a rich profusion of flavours.
Peter Hu? has recently added new dishes to their menu which I am convinced will only enhance their popularity. These include the rather unique Sushi Taco in Salmon & Tofu variants, Bhetki Fish with Holy Basil, Sliced Lamb with Broccoli, Peter Hu’s? Lying Noodles, Sesame Prawns and much more. The Sushi Taco in particular for sushi lovers like me is exciting because of the crispy nori taco which encases delectably plump bites of salmon and avocado topped with an Orange Ponzu dressing.
Please keep room for dessert and even if you don’t have too much of a sweet tooth like me, order the Chocolate Hazelnut Mousse with Sea Salt and Lemon Curd that looks as stunning as it tastes, the Lemongrass and Coconut Panna Cotta combines lovely Thai flavours and the Dark Foamed Chocolate is the stuff dreams are made of! It’s one restaurant where someone like me who will usually skip dessert will certainly order dessert.
When I quizzed Sid about his favourite dish from the Peter Hu? menu he quipped, “I rotate between my favourites from the Robata and Pad Thai. My current favourite though is our newly introduced Salmon Sushi Taco. We tried using nori instead of corn or wheat, and it’s yum!”
I can certainly attest to the “yum” factor. Eating to the discerning diner is a multi-sensorial experience and Peter Hu? successfully orchestrates exactly that for their guests where the ambience, plating, vibe and flavour are all on point.
On a parting note when I inquired about this wonderfully quirky name and where it came from Sid laughed and said: “Hu’s Peter? Peter’s the cat’s cousin! Hahaha… seriously though, it’s part of the same family.”
If what you are looking for is a flavoursome, umami-laden culinary adventure through Asia then head straight to Peter Hu?