Loya takes diners on an immersive journey across the north
BY SANDEEP ARORA
Over the last few months, several topnotch new restaurants have sprung up across the length and breadth of the country, indicating a burst in pent-up demand. And the good news is that most of these outlets are fresh, with creative menus. In keeping with the upbeat mood in the food and beverage industry, Indian Hotels Company (IHCL) has also unveiled Loya at Taj Palace, New Delhi and has been packed ever since it opened its doors. Loya, which comes from a Pashtun word which means a gathering for a feast, stands in the same place as the erstwhile Masala Art.
I finally had the opportunity to experience the feast at Loya recently, when I was over at the hotel for a cigar evening. Even though it was a Monday, the restaurant was full, with guests waiting at the entrance.
We were escorted to the table by a smiling young lady and saw some familiar faces at the bar. It was a warm and welcoming evening and I was looking forward to experiencing what the new outlet had to offer.
In sum, Loya is a grand feast, which leads you on an immersive journey across the vivid north. From the foothills of the Himalayas to the flat terrain of Punjab to snow-laden Kashmir, Loya is a confluence of flavour, passion and influence.
The design philosophy is inspired by the historical lifestyle of the northern sub-continent and a glorious past – grand arches, exquisite niches, intricate motifs, stone jaalis and more, rendered perfectly with natural and aged textures and sandy beige backdrops.
The entrance leads into a lounge, further opening up to Loya’s distinctive bar courtyard and is accentuated with a stunning waterfall, reminiscent of the natural springs in the Himalayas.
The distinctive furniture has been crafted from logwood with copper embellishments. Vibrant drapes, vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree ‘jaalis’, striking canopies and colourful awnings create a sense of nostalgia and are reminiscent of the erstwhile bustling bazaars of the north.
The music is a spirited remix of popular folk music from the Indian subcontinent and is joyful companion at the table.
According to Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, “Our search for the authentic and the long-preserved dishes resulted in a gathering of the north’s most cherished recipes. They spotlight the inherent uniqueness and theatrics of time-honoured cooking techniques of the north – the drama of ‘dhungar’ or smoking, the aromatics of ‘baghar’, in which spices are tempered in hot oil, ‘dum’, the richness of slow-cooking and the energetic pounding of spices by hand.”
He adds: “Loya offers the warmth and comfort of the past intersecting with the energy of today. This is the cuisine of the soldiers of the north, the native tribes, the fierce warriors – rather than the opulence of
their kings. We go back to their culinary traditions, of processes, of cooking utensils, of ingredients and bring the everyday of this extraordinary region.”
An effort has been made at Loya to preserve timeless techniques, undiscovered culinary traditions and heirloom ingredients are proudly showcased.
Loya serves cuisines from the heart of the northern sub-continent, inspired by ancient cooking techniques.
The menu showcases authentic and long-preserved dishes, made with fresh, seasonal produce, farm-raised organic meats and in-house spice blends, ground in-house. Every care has been taken to keep this great culinary culture pristine and authentic.
Coming to the most interesting part, from my perspective, the bar is well appointed though the cocktails have an edge! ‘Five’ plays an innovative role and all things liquid are inspired by the same.
According to the head of beverage, “Panjj or paanch, meaning ‘five’, is our take on drinks inspired by the number ‘5’ and its great significance across India. From the five rivers of the north to the five senses, the five elements of life, and closer home, in the five tenets of Loya’s cocktail philosophy — harmony, experimentation, authenticity, reverence, and the spirit that come together to signify the heart of the north.”
Some of the signature non-vegetarian dishes were Dumba Kadhai (kid goat meat with a fresh chilli, ginger and black pepper tempering), Timbri Jhinga (prawns in a shrub seed marinade with pahadi bhang jeera chutney) and Kangra Khodiya Gosht (pahadi-special mutton curry with hand-ground, charred walnut ink).
The standout vegetarian dishes were Multani Gobhi (special clay-wrapped roasted cauliflower, served with a coriander emulsion, Dal Jhakiya (moong and arhar dal with a pahadi jhakiya seed tempering) and Sepu Wadi (Himachali split urad dal dumplings in a fresh tomato, yoghurt sauce).
For desserts, Badana Pearls (rabadi and saffron foam, sprinkled with pistachios and almonds) and Gud Ke Maan (chef’s own grandmother’s recipe for Badam Kheer) stole the show.
Having said that, one needs to visit Loya at least three times before one can appreciate and experience most of the menu…And I intend to do just that!
Timings: Open lunch and dinner
Call: 011-66503588
Average meal for two: Rs6,400 without alcohol
