Savour Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine in a sumptuous 1920s Shanghai setting at Oryn, Fairmont Mumbai
BY BRINDA GILL
The music is upbeat – it is Love by Billy Esteban – the colours deep and gorgeous, artefacts and artworks eye-catching, tables attractively set and inviting. Stepping into the main dining space of Oryn, the Sichuan and Cantonese speciality restaurant at Fairmont Mumbai, charms the senses instantaneously.
A glistening golden dragon – crafted with metal mesh and resonating majesty, good fortune and harmony – commands its presence on the vast accent wall. Framed by rich velvet drapes the wall appears akin a theatre-stage and the dragon a stately soloist. Slipping into the long sofa that hugs the length of the accent wall one sits back, absorbs the invisible blessings of the benevolent being and enjoys a view of the restaurant.
Black marble flooring, a black ceiling with circular backlit mirrors, dark walls and black table tops create a striking canvas to contrast red dining plates and red flowers at the tables and the artwork. A bioscope with circular viewing ports, placed on a monocles cabinet studded with protruding metallic circles, stands as an accent element and reference. Round forms echo in the circular ceiling mirrors and a cascade of hoops with fabrics with different embroidered motifs (cranes, koi fish, clouds and flowing water) evocative of China. The table tops reflect the ceiling mirrors, the mirrors above reflect the buzz of the restaurant, and the design elements connect to create a wow factor.
Across the main dining space, two spacious private dining areas are elegantly set for dining and lit by contemporary-style chandeliers; the spaces may be discreetly enclosed by thick drapes. A bar, with bottles of spirits neatly displayed, buzzes with activity as a mixologist blends drinks. To the side is a row of smaller tables for small groups and couples.
Just behind them is Beyond Oryn, a lovely greenhouse-style space with a view of the airport runway that is even more striking by night. As the name suggests, it is designed to go beyond the restaurant’s offering to present an elevated dining experience. If reserved for a private party, the entire space is done up as required by the guest and a customised menu offered.
“The décor, the look and feel, the high-energy music of Oryn is about Shanghai of the 1920s, when films became an important part of the city’s vibrant culture and brought with it an aura of glamour, style and verve. From its dramatic interiors and the bioscope to its masterful cuisine and inspired cocktails, every element of Oryn has been designed to reflect the spirit of Shanghai’s golden age. Shanghai has among the most Art Deco buildings in the world built in the 1920s and 1930s including the iconic Fairmont Peace Hotel. As the architecture of Fairmont Mumbai is inspired by Art Deco, this facet of Shanghai also makes the city a muse for Oryn. One of the meanings of Oryn is golden and true to its name the restaurant is about exclusivity, an extraordinary experience,” says Prasad Metrani, Executive Assistant Manager, F&B.
While recreating an aura of opulent theatres of times past, the décor also creates a wonderful setting for the food to take centre-stage. Prasad elaborates that like 1920s Shanghai, the act of theatre is an important part of the Oryn experience in terms of the culinary and service. The interactive service in terms of assembling or finishing a dish by the diner’s table just before serving it brings in an element of theatre, engages guests and also conveys the freshness of the food.
The kitchen is led by the legendary Chef Kanti Prasad Sharma who has over four decades of Chinese culinary experience. He has been the head chef of many great Chinese restaurants in the past and worked with Chinese master chefs across the globe. He brings the right expertise to Oryn as we focus on offering authentic Sichuan and Cantonese specialities prepared with the best ingredients and presented with a contemporary touch,” explains Prasad.
The menu features an extensive variety of Sichuan dishes marked by their fiery flavours; a selection of Cantonese specialities, especially dim sums, savoured for their mild flavours; and signature dishes spanning vegetarian, non-vegetarian and seafood; steamed, wok-tossed, roasted, stir-fried, deep-fried, pan-grilled and braised preparations. From vegetarian and non-vegetarian dim sums to vegetarian small eats; seafood, chicken, meat, soup and duck; large plates; tofu; rice and noodles; and a separate Jain menu; there is something for everyone. The menu also has a choice of non-alcoholic beverages and light teas like Emperor Pu Erh Tea, Jade Dragon Tea and Lavender Kiss Tea.
With a significant number of diners being vegetarian, Prasad has consciously placed a variety of vegetarian preparations in the menu. Of these, he recommends Water Chestnuts and Shiitake Mushrooms, Dry Cooked Haricot Beans and Mapo Tofu. For the non-vegetarians, he recommends King Prawn Golden Garlic, Stir-Fried Sliced Lamb, Two Pepper Chicken and Beijing Duck that is synonymous with celebrations, festive meals and the rich culinary heritage of Beijing.
True to its being celebratory speciality, Beijing Duck is served by the table bringing a touch of ritual and theatrical service to the meal. “The duck is slow cooked in the oven till it is roasted nicely, has a crisp golden skin. It is brought with accompaniments to the table side. The server carves it precisely, like calligraphic strokes. A slice with crust is then placed on a warm Mandarin pancake, brushed with hoisin sauce, a sliver of scallion added with some plum sauce/pickles, and then it is rolled and served. One bite is all it takes to taste tradition reborn,” says Prasad.
Enhancing the storytelling and service at Oryn, is the especially hand-crafted crockery: the Crispy Fried Soft-Shell Crab is served in a crab-shaped dish; Lobster Jiao Zi in a red coloured lobster-shaped dish; and Hokkaido Scallop in a sea urchin-shaped dish.
The drinks menu brings an extensive selection of spirits (a variety of single malts listed by flavour profile, blended Scotch along with whiskies from Japan, America, India; cognac, gins and other spirits) as well as collection of clarified cocktails to the dining experience. The cocktail menu is based on Wu Xing, the Chinese philosophy rooted in the belief that the five elements – wood, fire, earth, water and metals – represent the cyclical forces of nature and their interconnectedness, and each gives rise to and supports the next to form a harmonious balance. In sync with this philosophy, each cocktail has ingredients representing two elements such as coconut milk and soda (representing water), maple in maple syrup (representing wood), sharp citrus (symbolising metal), smoked star anise (representing fire) and umeshu and grape pickle (signifying the earth)
The energy quotient of Oryn surges post 9.30pm; the restaurant fills in, younger dinners arrive and in-house DJ revs the tempo of the music. The restaurant will soon be hosting short theatre acts to add to its verve, ensuring that from art to culture, food, service and entertainment, guests enjoy a multi-sensory, immersive dining experience.
