Fireback, Goa offers seamless fusion of Asian flavours
BY RUPALI DEAN
Hidden behind the revered South Indian eatery, Hosa, in the charming village of Siolim, lies a captivating secret: Fireback. Concealed by an elegant white barricade, the back of Hosa’s veranda has become an enigmatic haven, courtesy of the mysterious and widely acclaimed David Thompson.
A culinary luminary with distinguished ventures in Bangkok, Hong Kong, London, and Perth, David is drawn to the art of showcasing authentic Thai cuisine rather than seeking accolades. His culinary expertise is evident in his acclaimed cookbooks and Michelin-starred restaurants.
In the vibrant state of Goa, David’s journey converges with Rohit Khattar, a visionary who pioneered India’s premier Pan-Asian restaurant with the now-shuttered Oriental Octopus. Rohit has assembled a team of talented chefs, including renowned figures like Swatantra Gautam and Prantush Rai, to create a dining experience at Fireback that surpasses all expectations.
Seeking David’s golden touch, Rohit enlisted him as the Culinary Director at Fireback. The restaurant, with its scenic riverfront seating, open kitchen centered around a Josper grill, and vibrant ambience enhanced by the glow of St. Anthony’s church at night, stands as a hidden gem in Goa.
Fireback embodies the captivating tale of passion, expertise, and the seamless fusion of Asian flavours under David’s masterful guidance. The white barricade at Hosa’s veranda becomes a gateway to an enthralling culinary journey where patrons can savour the harmonious blend of flavours and experience the charm of Fireback, named after Thailand’s national bird.
Coming to the food, David’s playful antics momentarily divert my attention, however, as the aroma and exquisite flavours of his coconut and galangal soup tantalise my senses, I realise he simply aims to preserve the enchantment of his culinary art. Embracing both his entertaining company and exceptional cooking, I surrender myself to this magical experience. Amidst shared plates and lively conversation, an unforgettable family-style feast unfolds. Though unconventional, the first chef I have encountered shows no interest in discussing his food. Instead, he humorously jests with Rohit, expressing a desire for local cuisine. It becomes evident that his vibrant personality is beautifully reflected in every dish – unassuming yet feisty, spirited yet intricately created.
As Tanongsak Yordwai, David’s partner of 35 years, joins us at the table, David’s charismatic persona shines even perkier. Winning in polyglot banter, he smoothly switches between his light-hearted, Ralph Fiennes-esque charisma and the soft harmony of Thai dialect. Each dish served carries the imprint of David’s artistry – grilled eggplant’s smokey bitterness, the scallop plaa hoi sheenn’s coconut and chilli accents, and the refreshing pineapple-based som tam.
Delightful surprises abound, like a coconut milk-free vegetable green curry featuring tantalising palm hearts and local teppal peppercorns. Every bite reveals the thoughtfulness and creativity behind each ingredient, showcasing David’s respect for tradition while delivering unexpected and nuanced flavours.
David, renowned for his authentic Thai cuisine, fearlessly reconstructs traditional dishes using local ingredients, a challenging endeavour that only a select few would dare to undertake. His determination to strike the perfect balance between authenticity and ingredient limitations reflects his unwavering commitment to his craft.
David’s audacious venture, bringing the flavours of old Siam to vibrant Siolim, attracted his adventurous spirit, as he admires the bold, risky, and delicious journey embarked upon by the Fireback team. The food, like its master, eloquently expresses itself: succulent massaman lamb curry, fragrant cinnamon cucurbits, tangy river prawn and green papaya curry complemented by the scrumptious Thai omelette with crab. In sum, it’s a symphony of flavours and textures that delight the palate.
