Chutney Mary remains a shining example of contemporary Indian dining in London’s culinary scene
BY SAJJIT MITHA
Chutney Mary, a shining example of contemporary Indian dining in London’s vibrant culinary scene, has relocated to a new address at St James's, not far from The Ritz hotel.
When my wife Laveena and I walked in, we were delighted to spot Camellia Panjabi, who is highly respected across continents for her unparalleled expertise in uncovering the hidden gems of Indian cuisine and presenting them with a modern twist to the world.
She is globally recognised as a culinary authority, a master of food who has crafted numerous flavour combinations that have enchanted food enthusiasts worldwide over the years.
Although she was accompanied by other guests, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to introduce ourselves to this renowned celebrity. We expressed our admiration for her as a visionary trendsetter in the culinary world and conveyed our excitement about exploring the diverse cultural heritage of India through our experience at Chutney Mary that afternoon. Chutney Mary was first opened in Chelsea in 1990 by Camellia’s sister Namita and her investment banker husband Ranjit Mathrani. Namita is known to be infinitely talented and an authority in her own right on authentic Indian cuisine.
Namita and Camellia are both equally responsible for directing the widely loved and celebrated food at their different restaurants including at Chutney Mary, Veeraswamy and Masala Zone.
After relishing our fan moment with Camellia, we made our way past the long timbered Pukka Bar, through the stylish and spacious restaurant to our table at the far end.
Our sensory adventure, which friends who had previously dined there promised would be a unique Indian gastronomic journey, commenced with a flavourful dish called The Tokri Chaat.
With our very first mouthful, an interplay of crisp textures and lively spices captivated us, eliciting smiles of approval.
Next we indulged in the Spiced Corn Ribs, which were just so gorgeously divine. Immersed in deliciousness and with slightly tingling lips from the masala, Laveena looked at me and said, “Jaan, these corn ribs are the best I’ve ever tasted. They so effortlessly redefine comfort food with their rich, delectable Indian flavours."
Following the very favourable start to our afternoon meal, we were next served a visually stunning Masala Sea Bream. The artful presentation on the plate hinted at a celebration of the ocean’s bountiful offerings.
The bold and nuanced flavours of the sea bream were a testament to the individuality of every dish at Chutney Mary, each telling a unique tale of flavour and skill, beckoning diners to fully immerse themselves in a realm of vibrant and unforgettable tastes.
The Afghani Chicken Tikka proved to be a revelation, embodying tenderness and spice that resonated deeply with tradition. Tender, decadent and succulent, every bite of the Afghani Chicken seemed to melt in our mouths, coating our tongues with a gentle sheet of a rather welcome aftertaste.
This was followed by the Mangalorean Prawn Curry, a dish that swiftly transported us to the sun-kissed shores of India. While Laveena chose to have hers on a bed of fragrant basmati rice, I opted for a freshly baked, flaky and buttery naan bread. As my naan soaked up the warmth of the rich, aromatic curry, it conjured memories of seaside escapades and lively coastal fish markets.
For dessert, we indulged in the Raspberry Panna Cotta. Delighted by the perfect texture, each spoonful revealed a harmonious blend of tartness and creaminess that left a lingering sweetness on the palate.
The Kulfi Falooda Sundae proved to be a lavish treat fusing tradition with modernity. With undertones of paan and gulkand, we relished every spoonful, deeply content from the delightful flavours.
Chutney Mary transcends being merely a restaurant; it is a culinary voyage, a tribute to culture and cuisine that breaks boundaries and defies categorisation.
With each dish and every bite, Laveena and I felt as though we had embarked on a vivid journey through the rich tapestry of Indian flavours, reimagined through the innovative and creative lens of the marvellous kitchen team including the executive chef, the head chef, the sous chef and the junior sous along with ten other very talented individuals, each from a different community and regions of India, ensuring a rather enriching diversity in taste.
Their unwavering dedication needed to be applauded as each appeared committed to excellence, evident in every aspect of our afternoon dining experience.
Chutney Mary is not just a place to dine; it is a transformative encounter that leaves a lasting impression even after the plates have long been cleared.