The capital of Nepal in is renowned for its ancestry
BY RUPALI DEAN
CHARMING KATHMANDU
Interlacing down the road amid fast-moving cars and honking motorbikes as I squeeze through the narrow streets, I am welcomed by ardent street hawkers and the buzzing host of people on every nook and corner, while my senses go into overdrive and the dust gathers pace around me…
I try not to be too quick to give up on Kathmandu – I grow into this enchanted anarchy as I spend a day revealing the city’s charms. There’s more to it than meets the overwhelmed eye, and a whole adventure awaits me beyond the backpacking area of Thamel.
7:30 AM: BREAKFAST AT NOOK, ALOFT
I need a hearty breakfast before I start my day for sure. Tucked away in Thamel, this delectable coffee shop at Aloft is none too traditional in its décor and has a very upbeat contemporary feel to it. The place aims to attract the well-travelled and those looking for variety, set in elegantly cosy surroundings, it offers tasty treats with distinction. Eggs remain breakfast mainstays; a cappuccino bar churns out special coffee. You can even ask for a special Nepali breakfast if you wish to go a la carte.
9:00 AM: BOUDHANATH STUPA
As I step in, I see some pilgrims walking around the stupa in a clockwise direction. Apart from its utter magnitude and magnificence, this massive stupa is the epicentre of so much devotion – one can’t help but be overwhelmed by it. I settle for a cup of tea at the Roadhouse Cafe and enjoy the Stupa from a higher vantage point.
1:00 PM: LUNCH AT JIMBU THAKALI
It is one of Kathmandu’s noticeable traditional Thakali restaurants. Named after Himalayan herb called jimbu, the restaurant moves frontward the bequest of Thak-Khola Village of Mustang District. Jimbu Thakali was founded by the Sherchan family to introduce Thakali Khana to Nepalese and Tourists. Jimbu Thakali has two branches in Nepal and intends to open a third branch.
Good food begins with cleanliness and Thakali kitchens have been known for having an extremely clean, and sanitised kitchen space. Just as it should be, Thakali cooking takes the colour, texture and, of course, the taste is the heart of Thakali cooking. What makes Jimbu Thakali stand out is the minimalism of the food, guaranteeing the taste quintessence of the base food which remains together with a hint of exclusive spices coming together to make it soul food.
4:30 PM: PATAN
Located on a highland across the Bagmati River, Patan is eight kilometres south of Central Kathmandu and is also known as Lalitpur aka the city of fine arts. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is indeed rich in very old temples, shrines, pagodas and stupas. It is perhaps the most picturesque collection of buildings that have been set up in such a small area. This lovely little city with its well preserved glorious heritage and the history of finest craftsmanship is a must visit.
6:00 PM: THAMEL
Thamel has been referred to as the ‘ghetto’ by some; that said most low-budget travellers consider it a tourist haven. The narrow streets are choked with rickshaws, taxis, motorbikes and humanity. All the supermarket run backstreets with innumerable shops selling the illustrious indigenous Pashmina, Yak, Jacquard and Cashmere shawls, are intertwined and I could never guess what is coming out at the next turn.
Little temples and stupas are well hidden too at the back streets. It is more of a rambler area wall to wall with cafes, travel agents, foreign money exchange booths and budget hotels with heaps of camping and hiking gear shops counting pirated North Face products.
RETREAT
Bandipur a four-hour drive from Kathmandu, it is nestled amidst natural beauty. You can either just chill out there by staying at The Old Inn the best resort in the city where on a clear day you can get a good view of the soaring Himalayan ranges or use it as a base to the unbelievable trekking routes in the central Annapurna region of the country.
