Hokkaido is a favourite for travellers seeking Japan beyond tourist hubs
BY ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN
Japan’s northernmost island is also its most picturesque. With four clear seasons, stunning vistas, sparkling snow and an eclectic dining scene, Hokkaido has emerged as a favourite with skiing enthusiasts, foodies and travellers seeking a slice of Japan beyond its well-established tourist hubs.
It’s certainly not on the itinerary of most first-time travellers to Japan. It’s cities like Tokyo and Kyoto that are high on that list. But a whole bunch of evolved travellers are slowly putting Hokkaido under the spotlight, a place it truly deserves.
Most of these journeys begin in Sapporo, the island’s biggest city. I came here in the peak of winter when temperatures drop below -10 degrees, and the island is at its photogenic best.
Hokkaido is no stranger to international recognition. It’s been a cult skiing destination almost since 1972 when Sapporo hosted the Winter Olympics. It was the first time these games were held outside Europe or North America.
Sapporo’s winter festival where ice sculptors converge on the city in February has also become a popular event on Hokkaido’s tourist calendar. One of Sapporo’s most popular spots is a shrine for some of these skiers – The Okurayama Ski Jump that was built for the Winter Olympics ranks among the world’s most iconic skiing venues.
Hokkaido’s culinary credentials are a big part of the island’s appeal. It’s where evolved Japanese foodies head for sushi and one of those rare destinations in the world where local produce complements unique local dining experiences.
There’s certainly no evidence that Genghis Khan’s global conquests ever took him as far as Hokkaido. That hasn't stopped one of the region’s famous grilled meat dishes to pay tribute. Locals call this ‘jingisukan’ and believe the origins of this name date back to a time when Mongolian soldiers used to cook their meat by placing it atop their helmets and then placing their helmets over open fire.
The helmets have made way for convex metal skillets that are placed at the centre of each table. Think of it as your own personal, do-it-yourself meal where you dab some meat fat on to the skillet and keep adding meats and vegetables.
Dramatic, panoramic views are almost a given in Hokkaido. It’s almost the first thing I learnt when I arrived at Hakodate, located at Hokkaido’s southern tip.
For almost two centuries, Japan had isolated itself from the rest of the world. It was only in the 1850s that some of the ports began to open for international trading. Hakodate was one of the first ports in Japan that opened up. It’s why it’s also home to one of the first Western-style fortresses – Fort Goryokaku.
It was the centre of power for the short-lived Republic of Ezo that lasted just six months in 1869. This was the first time Japan experienced a democratic government based on universal suffrage. It was around this time that the country’s northernmost island came to be known as Hokkaido (that translates to ‘Northern Sea Region’).
Fort Goryokaku is a star-shaped Western-style citadel that eventually morphed from fort to a public park. The 107-metre tall Goryokaku Tower offers sweeping views of this fortress and of Hakodate.
As I discovered, sunset is the best time to take in these views. It’s the same at Hokkaido’s numerous look-out points that include Mount Hakodate and Mount Moiwa at Sapporo.
Hakodate’s other popular landmark is a throwback to its maritime trading days – the Red Brick Warehouses, that have recently been developed into a chic shopping and dining destination. But if you have time for just one market visit, I would recommend the Hakodate market where seafood stalls, restaurants and local produce are all in the mix.
The pride of Hakodate’s seafood produce is its delicious squid. You can fish for squid in a large tank at the market and watch it quickly transform into scrumptious Sashimi in front of your eyes. High quality sushi and sashimi are almost a given across the island. But that’s not the only reason foodies throng Hokkaido. The island’s dairy products are among the best in the world, especially its soft serve ice-creams.
I made the one-hour trip from Sapporo to another charming coastal town – Otaru. A charming canal adorned with Victorian lamps is one of Otaru’s most striking architectural landmarks but it’s the town’s market that I enjoyed visiting. I made a stop at Rokkatei, an iconic local establishment for their famous soft-serve ice-creams; probably the best I’ve sampled anywhere in Asia.
Otaru is also a transit point for whisky connoisseurs. It’s close to Yoichi, the home of one of Japan’s finest whisky brands – Nikka. It was Taketsuru Masataka, known as the father of Japanese whisky who set up Nikka after he established Yamazaki Distillery near Kyoto.
Hokkaido is almost a microcosm of the best Japanese food and lifestyle experiences. Aside from a wide range of sushi bars in cities like Sapporo and Otaru, there’s the Izakaya experience. I headed straight to a popular Izakaya almost soon I landed at Sapporo. These Izakayas – a typical after-hours Japanese bar and restaurant, come alive at night, where co-workers bond over fine cuisine, sake and office gossip that is clearly taboo at the workplace.
Not all Hokkaido’s culinary traditions are deep rooted in time. There’s Sapporo’s soup curry that is a contemporary addition to Japanese cuisine. It’s reminiscent of a laksa except there’s an overdose of Japanese curry powder and no coconut milk. The yellow curry features an assortment of meats and vegetarian options that are served along with sticky rice. It’s a great option (the vegetarian version) for Indian travellers who are seeking a vegetarian meal.
As I took in the views of Hakodate from the Goryokaku Tower on a typical cold winter’s evening, I swore I’d come back to Hokkaido. At almost the same instant I overheard a guide tell a bunch of tourists that the entire area is a carpet of cherry blossom trees during the cherry blossom season (April-May). Now I know when I’m heading back to Hokkaido.
