Capital Thimpu may be preferred by global visitors but the real Bhutan lies in the countryside and villages
BY SUBHASISH CHAKRABORTY
Bhutan, the land of Vajrayana Buddhism and one of the world’s happiest countries, evokes images of the stupendous Eastern Himalayas, hill-top monasteries (Gompas) and warm hospitable people. Out here in the Himalayas, prosperity is measured not in terms of concepts like gross domestic product (GDP) or per capita income, but by the level of happiness of its citizens.
Such is the Kingdom’s obsession with happiness that way back in 1971, the country outright rejected the GDP and put in place the concept of GNH (Gross National Happiness) where prosperity is measured by taking into consideration citizen’s spiritual, physical, social and environmental health. It took a tiny Himalayan country to come out with a stark warning that Planet Earth is on the verge of an economic and environmental disaster. The UN adopted Bhutan’s call for a more holistic approach towards development in the year 2013 that found the support of 68 countries.
As you embark on your journey through Bhutan, you will observe uplifting mantras embossed on hairpin-bend mountainous signposts that reiterate the value of life rather than the value of speed – one-liners like “Let nature be your guide, Life is a journey! Complete it!” welcome you to this Kingdom of bliss.
Although the capital city of Thimpu along with Paro are both much preferred by global visitors, yet the pace of life is not as peaceful as you would like it to be largely due to the invasion of modern-day civilisation.
Bear in mind the fact that authentic Bhutan lies in the countryside and in picturesque villages, where the pace of life is unhurried, sparsely populated and, as visitors, you can actually experience the semi-nomadic Bhutanese lifestyle to the core.
Phobjikha Valley, a mesmerising glacial valley besides the ethereal Black Mountains, is an ideal Bhutanese hamlet valley where the century’s old rural Bhutanese way of life still sustains with great vibrancy.
In this part of the woods, the ancient Vajrayana Buddhism has been practised for centuries together and, at the monastery here, you can actually have a date with wizened Buddhist lamas.
Legend has it that the monastery was built by Gyalse Rigdzin Pema Thinley, grandson and re-embodiment of the great Bhutanese treasure hunter Pema Lingpa. Needless to say, the Phobjikha monastery is the largest Nyingmapa monastery.
A fabulous six-hour mountain drive from Paro, which is the nearest airport, is all you need to figure out the fascinating semi-nomadic Bhutanese lifestyle, which the entire civilised world is so anxiously wanting to comprehend.
So where do you stay in Phubjikha Valley? In rustic mountain cottages? In Bhutanese homestay accommodation? Or, for that matter, in a sketchy Himalayan log hut? Well, you have all those options open.
Phobjikha’s rise to fame in Bhutan’s tourism landscape is largely due to the pioneering efforts of the outstanding Gangtey Lodge – a 12-room lodge designed to perfection by Australian architect Mary Lou Thomson who together with owner Khin Omar Win first conceptualised the idea of setting up a luxury boutique Bhutanese-style farmhouse property at Phobjikha Valley.
It all began back in 2003 when the duo Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer were toying with the idea of launching hot-air balloon expeditions in the Bhutan Himalayas. After a lot of rummage and fact checking, they decided to zero in on the majestic Phobjikha Valley as their logistical hub. Today, Gangtey Lodge is credited with the honour of introducing Bhutan’s first commercial hot air ballooning experience.
The lodge is uniquely Bhutanese and the harmonious amalgamation of Bhutan’s vernacular wood and stone architecture with contemporary design patterns.
Thanks to the efforts of the owner and the architect this luxury lodge not just offers hot-air balloon rides, which usually commences from September, but also has an array of Himalayan experiences ranging from immersive cultural experiences, villages walks, first-hand experience of Vajrayana Buddhism and a range of treks that takes you to never-before-discovered mountain settings deep into the heart of this fascinating Himalayan kingdom.
Phobjikha’s quintessential grassy meadows are ideal grazing grounds for cattle and horses and the valley being swampy means that it is a paradise for migratory birds – black-necked cranes, for instance.
What’s more, stately blue pines, maple, birch and rhododendrons offer a touch of sophistication that only Mother Nature could offer.
The valley is rich in wildlife and is actually a bio-diversity hotspot – wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, muntjacs (barking deer), Himalayan serows, leopards and foxes make it a great wilderness zone. Not surprisingly, Phubjikha Valley is a treat for one’s senses.
