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“THERE IS A SENSUALITY
TO SERVICE THAT ONLY
THOSE WHO HAVE LIVED
IT UNDERSTAND – THE
SEDUCTION OF A PERFECTLY
FOLDED NAPKIN, THE SIGH OF
A CORK OPENING, THE SMALL
SYMPHONY OF A BAR WAKING
UP, THE CHOREOGRAPHY OF
SERVERS WEAVING THROUGH
A DINING ROOM LIKE DANCERS
GUIDED BY INSTINCT AND
INTIMACY. A KITCHEN HAS
CADENCE. A DINING ROOM
HAS POETRY. A HOTEL LOBBY
HAS A HEARTBEAT. AND
TRAVEL, WHEN DONE WITH
GRACE, BECOMES A HOLY
LANGUAGE.”
Not rehearsed. Not robotic. Pure. That was hospitality: that whispers instead of shouts. The design that
not in perfection, but in presence. breathes. The food that listens as much as it speaks. The
Another morning, at a small homestay in Coorg, I chefs who wrestle with fire and fatigue. The hoteliers
sniffled through breakfast. Without a word, the hostess who hold empires together with invisible stitches. The
returned with a bowl of steaming rasam and whispered, wellness spaces that heal. The banquet halls that
“Drink this. This fixes most of life.” That too was hospitality celebrate. The bars that confide. The sustainability efforts
– intuition without intrusion. that are sincere rather than performative. The travel
And I cannot forget New York, the city that carved me moments that transform instead of merely transport.
into the chef I became. At my Michelin-starred restaurant I want to celebrate the invisible. Question the
Devi, after an exhausting service, I leaned against a prep unnecessary. Applaud the extraordinary. Critique with
table trying to gather myself. A dishwasher – the lowest- care. Nudge with nuance. And most importantly, remind
paid man in the building – touched the table beside me us all of something we forget: hospitality is the oldest
and said, “Chef, you go. I’ll finish this.” In that moment, he human instinct. It predates hotels and huts, menus and
was the richest man in the room. Hospitality is often Michelin stars, room service and reservation systems.
measured in stars, but the brightest stars usually stand in Hospitality began the first time one human looked at
the scullery. another and said, “Come in. Rest. Eat. Be safe.”
There is a sensuality to service that only those who In a world of fracture – fractured attention, fractured
have lived it understand – the seduction of a perfectly empathy, fractured pace – hospitality remains our most
folded napkin, the sigh of a cork opening, the small necessary bridge. A bridge built not of concrete, but of
symphony of a bar waking up, the choreography of kindness.
servers weaving through a dining room like dancers And so, as I begin this journey with you, I offer one
guided by instinct and intimacy. A kitchen has cadence. belief I have carried through three decades in kitchens,
A dining room has poetry. A hotel lobby has a heartbeat. hotels, homes, and hearts: hospitality is not the business
And travel, when done with grace, becomes a holy of service. Hospitality is the practice of love. And if
language. through this column we can remember that – even for a
Through this column, I want to explore it all. The moment – then perhaps we can restore a little of the
sensuality of spice. The spirituality of service. The luxury world, one warm gesture at a time.
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