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freewheeling










          The quiet art of holding, healing, and humanising the world




          By Suvir Saran




                       ospitality has always been my first      soft architecture of affection, the geometry of generosity,
                       language, my mother tongue, the soft     the steady science of seeing someone clearly and
                       grammar of my childhood and the steady   making room for them exactly as they are.
                       rhythm of my adulthood. Long before I     In these pages, I want to tell the stories that hide
                       learned how to write a recipe, compose a   behind the shine. The feelings behind the façade. The
          Hcritique, or craft a column, I knew the              emotions beneath elegance. The human stories behind
          temperature of a welcome. I knew how a room could     the celebrity of a restaurant – the quiet craftsmen whose
          shift simply because someone lit a lamp with love. I knew   hands steady the flame, the stars who polish the sheen
          how the fragrance of dal could become a dialect of    of a menu long before it arrives at your table, the magic
          comfort, how a glass of water placed with intention   makers who work invisibly so that you may feel visible.
          could speak louder than any polished speech.           I want to explore the sensuality in service, the poetry in
          Hospitality, for me, was never a profession. It was a pulse.   plating, the rhythm in a kitchen’s chaos, and the rhyme in
          A quiet heartbeat beneath meals, moments, and         a dining room’s calm. Because hospitality is not only
          meetings, the hidden hum beneath how humans hold      about taste – it is about tenderness. It is not only about
          each other. And so when Shafquat Ali invited me to write   technique – it is about truth. It is not only about food – it
          a bi-monthly column for Hospitality Horizon, he didn’t   is about feeling.
          simply offer me space. He entrusted me with a purpose:   People see the luminescent dining rooms, the
          to explore hospitality not as a business, but as a    lacquered tables, and the glassware that gleams like
          breathtaking, fragile, ferocious human instinct.      galaxies. But they do not see the hands behind the shine:
           Many of you may know me already. Perhaps through     shoulders sore from lifting, fingers taped from slicing,
          the vulnerable vignettes I share every Sunday in my Slice   chefs who haven’t sat down since sunrise, hosts who
          of Life column for Indian Express, or through the     smile through heartbreak, servers who swallow tears
          simmering reflections I serve each Friday in Soft Boil for   behind POS screens. Hospitality is not glamour.
          Open magazine, or through the literary flavours I plate   Hospitality is grit wrapped in grace.
          every Thursday in Aftertaste, my weekly book review for   We often speak of menus but forget the magic of
          Indian Express. You may have followed my monthly      moments. A guest’s journey begins long before the
          pieces in Hello! magazine, or the many essays and     amuse-bouche. It begins in the way a door opens. In the
          columns I write for ANI News – pieces that the syndicate   way a lobby breathes. In the way lighting soothes instead
          takes far and wide, allowing stories of food, culture,   of startles. It begins in the hush of expectation, the small
          compassion, kindness, and India’s living traditions to   whisper of hope every guest carries across that
          travel across geographies and into hearts that may never   threshold: Will I be seen? Will I be held? Will I matter
          meet me but somehow know me.                          here?
           But here, in Hospitality Horizon, I arrive with a different   I have learned more about hospitality from accidents
          intention. I am not here only to speak of properties or   than from awards. Once, at a well-known hotel in
          praise plates. I am here to travel into the emotional   Mumbai, a young server spilled burning coffee onto my
          undercurrents of hospitality – the joy, the exhaustion, the   lap. The table trembled. Crockery clattered. Time slowed
          grace, the grit, the glamour, the grief, and the ghosts.   into a hot, chaotic blur. The manager rushed over with
          Because hospitality is not built from buildings and   corporate apologies, crisp and formulaic, but what I
          bedsheets. It is built from breaths and beings. It is   remember is the look in the server’s eyes –real worry, real
          choreography, architecture, geometry, intuition. It is the   care, real humanity. “Sir, are you hurt? I’m so very sorry.”

          170    OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2025  hospitality horizon                                      www.hospitality-horizon.com
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