Page 92 - HH Dec Jan
P. 92

FOOD & BEVERAGE







                                                                                                                                                                                                    striking canopies and colourful awnings
                                                                                                                                                                                                    create a sense of nostalgia and are
                                                                                                                                                                                                    reminiscent of the erstwhile bustling bazaars
                                                                                                                                                                                                    of the north.
                                                                                                                                                                                                      The music is a spirited remix of popular folk
                                                                                                                                                                                                    music from the Indian subcontinent and is
                                                                                                                                                                                                    joyful companion at the table.
                                                                                                                                                                                                      According to Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, “Our
                                                                                                                                                                                                    search for the authentic and the long-
                                                                                                                                                                                                    preserved dishes resulted in a gathering of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    north’s most cherished recipes. They spotlight
                                                                                                                                                                                                    the inherent uniqueness and theatrics of
                                                                                                                                                                                                    time-honoured cooking techniques of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    north – the drama of ‘dhungar’ or smoking,
                                                                                                                                                                                                    the aromatics of ‘baghar’, in which spices are
                                                                                                                                                                                                    tempered in hot oil, ‘dum’, the richness of
                                                                                                                                                                                                    slow-cooking and the energetic pounding of
                                                                                                                                                                                                    spices by hand.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                      He adds: “Loya offers the warmth and
                                                                                                                                                                                                    comfort of the past intersecting with the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    energy of today. This is the cuisine of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    soldiers of the north, the native tribes, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    fierce warriors – rather than the opulence of
                                                                                                                                                                                                    their kings. We go back to their culinary
                                                                                                                                                                                                    traditions, of processes, of cooking utensils, of
                                                                                                                                                                                                    ingredients and bring the everyday of this
                                                                                                                                                                                                    extraordinary region.”
           I finally had the opportunity to experience the feast at                                                                                                                                   An effort has been made at Loya to preserve
          Loya recently, when I was over at the hotel for a cigar                                                                                                                                   timeless techniques, undiscovered culinary
          evening. Even though it was a Monday, the restaurant was                                                                                                                                  traditions and heirloom ingredients are
          full, with guests waiting at the entrance.                                                                                                                                                proudly showcased.
           We were escorted to the table by a smiling young lady                                                                                                                                      Loya serves cuisines from the heart of the
          and saw some familiar faces at the bar. It was a warm and                                                                                                                                 northern sub-continent, inspired by ancient
          welcoming evening and I was looking forward to                                                                                                                                            cooking techniques.
          experiencing what the new outlet had to offer.                                                                                                                                            The menu showcases authentic and long-
           In sum, Loya is a grand feast, which leads you on an                                                                                                                                     preserved dishes, made with fresh, seasonal
          immersive journey across the vivid north. From the                                                                                                                                        produce, farm-raised organic meats and
          foothills of the Himalayas to the flat terrain of Punjab to                                                                                                                               in-house spice blends, ground in-house. Every
          snow-laden Kashmir, Loya is a confluence of flavour,                                                                                                                                      care has been taken to keep this great
          passion and influence.                                                                                                                                                                    culinary culture pristine and authentic.
           The design philosophy is inspired by the historical                                                                                                                                        Coming to the most interesting part, from
          lifestyle of the northern sub-continent and a glorious past                                                                                                                               my perspective, the bar is well appointed
          – grand arches, exquisite niches, intricate motifs, stone                                                                                                                                 though the cocktails have an edge! ‘Five’ plays
          jaalis and more, rendered perfectly with natural and aged                                                                                                                                 an innovative role and all things liquid are
          textures and sandy beige backdrops.                                                                                                                                                       inspired by the same.
           The entrance leads into a lounge, further opening up to                                                                                                                                    According to the head of beverage, “Panjj or
          Loya’s distinctive bar courtyard and is accentuated with a                                                                                                                                paanch, meaning ‘five’, is our take on drinks
          stunning waterfall, reminiscent of the natural springs in                                                                                                                                 inspired by the number ‘5’ and its great
          the Himalayas.                                                                                                                                                                            significance across India. From the five rivers
           The distinctive furniture has been crafted from                                                                                                                                          of the north to the five senses, the five
          logwood with copper embellishments. Vibrant drapes,                                                                                                                                       elements of life, and closer home, in the five
          vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree ‘jaalis’,                                                                                                                             tenets of Loya’s cocktail philosophy —

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