Ready to tuck into charm from the eras gone by, we check out five restaurants in Mumbai where eating out is every retro food lover’s dream come true
BY ISMAT TAHSEEN
If there is one design trend that has seen the biggest revival today, it’s Art Deco. A design movement that developed into a prominent style in architecture, design and fashion in Western Europe and the US during the 1930s, Art Deco also swept into the burgeoning city of Bombay.
Cut to the present day, we are witness to its beautiful resurgence in Mumbai’s cultural scene – especially in restaurants, cafés and resto bars. Ornate crystal chandeliers that meet vintage flooring, chrome, gold pillars, velvet chairs and glossy, lacquered wood are deliciously driving up the glamour in these eateries.
It’s no surprise, too. With Mumbai having the second-most Art Deco buildings in the world, it’s a given that the city’s drinking and dining establishments are paying homage to that architectural style.
Anil Badan, Founder & Principal Architect of Studio B Architects, affirms: “Art Deco is also widely seen in the structures of Mumbai. This unique design style, characterised by geometric patterns, bold colours, and luxurious materials, reflects the city’s vibrant cultural history. Modern-day restaurants pay homage to the design trend by integrating elements from the past in their designs.
“From symmetrical forms to dramatic lighting and ornate elements, the restaurant interiors mimic the refined styles of Art Deco. Metallic accents, polished surfaces, and rich colour palettes create a nostalgic atmosphere in contemporary restaurants. This nod to Mumbai’s architectural past enhances the dining experience and connects patrons to the city’s enduring legacy of artistic expression.”
Ready to tuck into charm from the eras gone by? Here’s where you can do so...
INDIAN ACCENT
When the iconic Indian Accent arrived in Mumbai at Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre last year, it promised an innovative Indian gourmet experience and managed to deliver just as much promise for its sheer luxury in design. A collaboration between London-based Russell Sage Studio, EHV’s Design Director Rohini Kapur and Director Development Vikas Bhasin and architect Incubis Consultants, the 75-seater restaurant packs an elevated yet understated sense of glamour and is a complete tribute to Mumbai’s distinctive Art Deco architecture.
From a walk into its elegantly-lit dining area flanked by floor-to-ceiling windows to its marbled arches and a slick bar that transports you back to the swinging Jazz Age of the 1920s to 1930s, the theme rules.
“Rashmi and Rohit Khattar were always keen to pay homage to Mumbai’s Art Deco movement and Russell Sage Studios together with Incubis have captured that essence in a contemporary fashion in their design,” says Rohini. “While thinking of the artwork to complement the design, we chose leading fine art photographer Rohit Chawla, who photographed some of the images of UNESCO Indian heritage sites and curated art deco images from Mumbai to add a romantic, timeless quotient to the space.”
GAYLORD
Back in the day, Gaylord was the place that celebrities partied at – from Bollywood veterans Raj Kapoor and Dilip Kumar to Rishi Kapoor, Lata Mangeshkar and Pandit Ravi Shankar as well as several Hollywood stars who dropped into then Bombay. The 67-year-old fine-dining establishment stood as an absolute ode to art deco glamour.
And, recently, it was refurbished to bring back that opulence to today’s food cognoscenti. The Churchgate-based eatery’s dramatic black-and-white flooring, a ceiling-to-floor glass façade, majestic arches, gold accents and 150 original black-and-white photos, definitely draw inspiration from the rich historical era of the past.
Affirming this, co-owner Divij Lamba states, “This was definitely a deliberate move as Gaylord is a part of Bombay’s history and culture. For us, the prime most concern was to harness the rich history of the place, many generations worth of cultural knowledge and to update the surroundings, yet in a historically significant and original way. This is reflected in our choice of furnishings, choice of flooring, in original art pieces we got from our own archives and from famous photographers and artists.”
“The special art deco elements are the use of chandeliers from that period, the use of cornicing which runs through the restaurant, the curtains, elements such as arches of oblong ceiling with the skylight as well as certain colour combinations and the use of suede,” he adds.
GIGI
This two-level establishment by Chrome Asia Hospitality opened last year and ever since it’s seen the city’s glitterati dine here on many a night. Blending Japanese and European culinary influences, Gigi is a vintage lover’s haven. From the ground level with its exposed brick walls over which gilded mirrors, retro-themed sofas with lamps and a long, wooden stairs that takes you to the level above, fluidity-meets-quaintness here.
Art deco elements continue as you ascend to the dining area with long communal tables, an island bar and comfy sofas set amidst textured limestone walls and patterned flooring for that old-world feel. Two private dining spaces, Eliot Room and The Jade Room, take that charm ahead with beautiful chandeliers, velvet chairs, tasselled fabric lamps and more.
Says Nikita Harisinghani, who has designed the place, “While looking for vintage chandeliers and lighting fixtures, we stumbled upon hidden gems that had been tucked away in forgotten corners of old buildings. We collaborated with local artists and designers who contributed some unique, handcrafted pieces that have enriched the overall design.” Definitely takes you into a different era.
NKSHA
A few pavements away from Gaylord, is Nksha, where you can soak in that Art Deco splendour. The 49-seater North Indian resto bar conceptualised by Shruti Jalan and Neesha Alwani of NSA Architects, has folks dining on Chutneywali Tandoori Fish Tikka, Dahi Bhalla Papri Chaat and Truffle Essence, Mushroom and Cheese Kulchas, in a space accentuated by a striking forest green floor and bright coral hues that dress up the on the walls.
The elegance continues with arches, plush sofas, brass accents, arches and more gold and metal geometry, wall sconce and antique patina finishes, all of which check the boxes for a modern luxurious revival of the vintage era. Nksha also showcases an open kitchen with deep green tiles and a bar that follows the design trend. Co-founders Pranav Rungta and Chef Vikram Arora wanted to get patrons to immerse in the Art Deco era of old Bombay’s joie de vivre and they’ve done so, beautifully.
LA LOCA MARIA
If food is about love and leisure, it comes to life at La Loca Maria set up in Bandra in 2019 as an ode to the way Spaniards love to eat, socialise and live. It’s also been the celebrity hangout with stars like Deepika Padukone and Isha Ambani and husband Anand Piramal dropping by.
While the food does the talking the décor rules, too. With its warm eclectic aesthetics and artfully-conceptualised Spanish interiors, the 75-seater restaurant helmed by Chef Manuel Olveira and his wife Mickee Tuljapurkar, has influences from Manuel’s home, the UNESCO heritage city of Toledo, Spain. The interiors are in an old town colour palette of beige, greens, whites and browns. You are greeted here by natural stone cladded arches, a beautiful dome from which hangs an art deco chandelier that sets the mood of the restaurant.
Other Art Deco design features include textured walls, ornate mirrors, a tapestry-cladded bar façade, wrought iron grills and a refined selection of pottery with that ‘au naturale’ flair. Elaborating on their design, Mickee reveals, “Our idea was to create a restaurant space which was not explicitly Spanish but an interpretation of Spanish architecture. The vibe of the restaurant is simultaneously high end and entirely casual. The place feels warm, comfortable, modern yet traditional. The restaurant is arranged so that almost every table has a view of the kitchen that is right in the centre of the restaurant.”
The private dining room is another jewel of a space with beautifully aged hand-painted mural ceilings where you sit down to savour your tapas, paella, deconstructed tiramisu and more.
