After its sensational debut in Goa last year, Fireback has opened its doors in Mumbai bringing with it its traditional Thai flavours with bold new twists
BY SHAFQUAT ALI
This is just what Mumbai needed to fire up its already heated up F&B scene. Close on the heels of the opening of Comorin in the Maximum City, EHV International – the company behind India’s most distinct culinary experiences like Indian Accent, HOSA and Chor Bizarre – has now introduced Fireback, which has been a runaway success since it opened in Goa a year back.
Drawing its name from Thailand’s striking national bird, Fireback brings traditional Thai flavours with bold new twists as Culinary Director legendary Chef David Thompson, who has spent decades studying and preserving the complexity of Thai cuisine, rolls out an authentic – and fiery! – menu that leaves diners asking for more.
Having trained extensively under David’s guidance in Thailand, Brand Chef Kaustubh Haldipur and his team has done extremely well to make Thai flavours come alive – from charred skewers and wok-fried stir-fries to intensely spiced jungle curries to refined classics, the menu is a study in contrasts.
Rooted in tradition but reimagined for the contemporary diner, Fireback delivers an exceptional culinary dining experience. Here they are not reinventing the cuisine; just presenting it with sheer honesty. Unlike most Thai offerings one is so used, the food here is bold, flavourful and unique.
Rohit Khattar, Founder Chairman, EHV International, explains: “In 1999 in New Delhi, we opened what was perhaps India’s first pan-Asian restaurant, Oriental Octopus. I always nurtured the desire to open an authentic, approachable Thai restaurant. Enter Chef David Thompson, whose cuisine I have always admired. Our accomplished team of chefs led by Brand Chef Kaustubh was extensively trained in Bangkok by David. Our mixologist extraordinaire, Varun Sharma, too travelled through Asia to create an ideal cocktail list. We hope Mumbai enjoys Fireback, which, like Comorin, has the incredibly beautiful Nilaya Anthology as its abode.”
Underscoring the operational challenge behind the scenes, Nitin Mathur, COO at EHV International, says: “Moving an open-fire Thai kitchen into the heart of Mumbai required precision, training, supply chains and timing, so diners can taste Chef David’s Bangkok standards without compromise. Fireback’s take on authentic Thai can be different from what the Indian palate expects, we hope it finds following in Mumbai too, after Goa.”
After I begin the meal began with a bowl of creamy Coconut & Galangal Chicken Soup, come standout dishes like Miang Kham, a textural betel leaf bundle layered with pomelo, toasted coconut and roasted peanuts and Mushroom Larb, a northern-style herb salad with toasted rice powder and chilli. While Pineapple Som Tam, a sweet-sour twist of the classic papaya salad with tamarind, palm sugar and peanuts, delivers both familiarity and surprise, the Scallop Salad, delicately spiced and bright with grated coconut and lemongrass, strikes a chord with intense hits of umami.
From the Josper grill comes the Prawns, Nahm Jim with a lively mix of garlic, chillies, coriander root, lime, fish sauce and palm sugar and the Lamb Chop Gorlae, a smokey, juicy, and bold dish which is marinated, double-basted and triple-grilled. For comfort and contrast, there’s the classic Thai Omelette and Crab Fried Rice, which are to die for.
To end on a sweet note, don’t miss the fragrant and gently sweet Mango & Sticky Rice and the turmeric-glazed caramelised Grilled Banana with Thai crispy roti and condensed milk ice cream. And not to forget the Cashew Nut Pudding with caramelised taro!
David sums up the experience cooking at Fireback saying he feels the same joy inside the kitchen now as he did 40 years ago. “I do my research and forget it,” he points out. “When I cook, I follow taste. It’s intuitive.”
Complementing the kitchen is an equally thoughtful beverage programme crafted by EHV International’s Head of Bars, Varun Sharma. Rooted in Thai ingredients and inventive technique, highlights include the Thai Spiced Diablo and the Tom Yum Highball.
From smokey and complex drinks like the Lapsang Old Fashioned to crisp and refreshing pours like the Lemongrass the cocktail menu is designed to surprise and delight.
Kevin Rodrigues, Head of Wines, EHV International, has curated a list of aromatic, fruit-forward wines with a hint of sweetness – ideal for balancing the spice and complexity of Thai cuisine.
