Seven years after it opened its ever-so-popular outpost in Gurugram, Comorin comes to Mumbai with its trademark elevated comfort food, offering dishes that are both rooted and redefined
BY SHAFQUAT ALI
There are many reasons why the Mumbai opening of Comorin, my favourite go-to restaurant in Gurugram, is so very special to me but the one I will not forget easily is the date it threw open its doors at Nilaya Anthology, a luxury design destination in Lower Parel i.e. May 27, which coincides with my birthday.
Like I told my dear friend Rohit Khattar, Founder Chairman, EHV International, this was the best gift he could have given me – and all the food-lovers in the Maximum City!
The original concept was created by the Creative Director of the company, Rishiv Khattar who worked on the design for both Comorin Gurugram and Mumbai with London’s Russell Sage Studio. The architectural services are by Gurugram’s Incubis.
The extremely contemporary setting is striking. In the afternoon it is a cool sunlit space while, at night, it dazzles with a stream of glimmering light from globe pendant lamps hanging above the community table, seamlessly transforming from its casual daytime dining experience to its pulsating night-life buzz.
One of the major highlights of this newly opened restaurant is that, at the end of this rainbow-shaped room, its back door opens into Nilaya Anthology’s Orangery, an indoor skylit tropical garden, which by night, becomes Comorin’s exceptional outdoor extension and unique party space. Besides its stunning design, what makes Comorin so special is that it brings with it not just a trademark menu, but a philosophy: one that celebrates India’s vast regional and street food diversity with an imaginative spin.
By embracing regional Indian cuisine in a globally relevant format, it succeeds in being both city-specific and universally appealing.
At Comorin, each of the 46 dishes on the menu is thoughtfully – and meticulously – crafted by Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan. Even though the menu’s comforting flavours from across India are easily identifiable they are innovatively layered and served with fun twists that stay true to tradition.
One could be mistaken to think that it is a modern Indian restaurant but Comorin steers clear of fusion food. In Rohit’s own words, it is a restaurant that serves regional comfort food that’s approachable. And that’s also the secret of Comorin’s success: creating its own imaginative version of fond community and regional Indian classics!
For a hardcore carnivore like me, the Champaran Mutton with Sattu Parantha, Tawa Crab Anda Bhurji, Andhra Gongura Chicken with crispy Murukku and Green Chilli Prawns were to die-for.
But there’s enough to bowl over the vegetarians too. From the Aam Ki Kadhi with Khoba Roti, Bhakarwadi to the Lemon Gun Powder Idli to the Nimbu Masala Avocado and the Banarasi Aloo Papad, they were sheer delight for the palate.
Comorin’s 21 small plates, 16 large plates, and four extra-large plates offer a fair balance of tantalising non-vegetarian and vegetarian food. Among the five desserts, the scene-stealers were the classic Cheeni Malai Toast and the amazing Salted Chikki Kulfi.
But that’s not all. It is a treat to see EHV International’s award-winning Head of Bars, Mixologist Varun Sharma, in action as he does his magic behind the bar with house-made sodas and Comorin’s signature sous vide infusion counter. The mocktails are a huge hit too with hot-sellers like the Coconut Licuado, the vanilla and chicory cold brew and the house-made sodas in flavours like mango and fig or khus and basil. And the best thing is that everything from cordials to bitters and shrubs is made in-house. Head of Wines, award winning sommelier Kevin Rodrigues, has curated a wine list of over 50 wines – incredibly each available by the glass.
Well, to put it in a nutshell, just when you think you have seen it all and sampled every conceivable nuance of menus in the Maximum City, along comes Comorin that promises to change the F&B landscape of Mumbai as it sweeps you off your feet with its stunning ambience and design, blows you away with its world-class service and wows you with its imaginative menu that creatively interprets traditional regional Indian fare without losing its soul.
