Page 40 - HH Dec 2024-Jan 2025

FOOD & BEVERAGE

Spotlight

Understanding why the Michelin Guide has not ventured into
India, a country renowned for its rich culinary traditions

By Rocky Mohan

he Michelin Guide, an internationally Introducing the Michelin Guide to a new country is a
recognised hallmark of culinary excellence, resource-intensive endeavour. It involves setting up
is conspicuously absent from India – a local offices, recruiting and training inspectors, and
country renowned for its rich and diverse conducting extensive research and evaluations to
culinary traditions. understand the local culinary landscape. These
T This absence is not due to a lack of processes are not only costly but also require a long-
quality or interest in fine dining but is rooted in a term commitment. Michelin needs to ensure that the
complex interplay of market dynamics, economic market can sustain such an investment and provide a
considerations, cultural diversity, and strategic business reasonable return on investment.
decisions. Understanding why the Michelin Guide has The Michelin Guide operates on a business model
not ventured into India requires a deep dive into these that relies on selling guidebooks and, increasingly,
multifaceted issues. leveraging its brand for partnerships and
One of the primary reasons for the Michelin Guide’s collaborations. For this model to be viable in India,
absence in India is the differing market dynamics and there must be a substantial and consistent demand for
demand for fine-dining experiences. The Michelin such a guide.
Guide traditionally thrives in markets where there is a Given the current state of the Indian market, where
significant consumer base for high-end dining fine dining is still an emerging segment, the potential
establishments. sales of guidebooks might not justify the initial and
Historically, India has a rich culinary culture, but it is ongoing costs involved in maintaining a high standard
heavily centered around home-cooked meals, street of inspection and publication.
food, and regional specialties. Fine dining, while India’s culinary landscape is one of the most diverse
present, is not as deeply entrenched in the everyday and complex in the world, with each region boasting its
dining culture as it is in countries like France, Japan, or own unique flavours, ingredients, and cooking
the US. techniques. This diversity, while a source of immense
In countries where the Michelin Guide operates, there culinary wealth, poses a significant challenge for a
is a well-established culture of dining out at upscale standardised rating system like the Michelin Guide.
restaurants, with consumers willing to pay premium The guide’s criteria, which focus on aspects such as
prices for gastronomic experiences. In contrast, India’s quality of ingredients, mastery of flavour and cooking
dining culture has been more about enjoying food in techniques, the personality of the chef in the cuisine,
communal and familial settings, with a strong emphasis value for money, and consistency, may not fully capture
on affordability and accessibility. the nuances of India’s varied food culture.
While the fine dining scene in metropolitan cities like For example, the techniques and ingredients used in
Mumbai, Delhi and Bengaluru is growing, it still the rich, aromatic curries of North India differ vastly
represents a relatively small segment of the overall from the coastal seafood preparations of Kerala or the
dining market. This limited market size could make it vegetarian thalis of Gujarat. Street food, a vital part of
challenging for the Michelin Guide to justify the India’s culinary identity, further adds to this complexity.
investment needed to establish a presence in India. The Michelin Guide, traditionally oriented towards

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