Newly opened Avartana at ITC Maratha, Mumbai, is wowing food lovers with innovative flair and curated menus
BY RUPALI DEAN
Avartana at ITC Maratha, Mumbai, redefines South Indian cuisine with innovative flair. Rasam in a Martini glass, papad adding crunch to desserts, and doodhi masquerading as spaghetti are just a glimpse of the culinary surprises in store.
This avant-garde dining experience unveils a fusion of tradition and contemporary taste. Previously honoured with a prestigious ranking among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the original Avartana in Chennai set a high standard that its Mumbai counterpart upholds with finesse.
As the third Avartana location in India, including one in Kolkata, this establishment continues to captivate diners with its mystical yet modern interpretation of Southern Indian flavours.
A visit to Avartana promises a journey through a culinary wonderland where tradition meets innovation in every savoury bite. Avartana has five tasting menus with distinct themes: Maya (seven courses), Bela (nine courses), Jiaa (11 courses), Anika (13 courses), and Tara (13 courses seafood).
We sampled dishes from all menus, labelled ‘Kimaya’. The banana leaf, a recurring motif in the exquisitely curated decor, pays homage to South Indian traditions here. Representing the culinary heritage of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, and Telangana, this symbol transcends into the nouvelle cuisine offered.
Departing from gaudy excess, the restaurant embraces a modern aesthetic with muted pastels and a harmonious blend of copper, brass, bamboo, and light wood accents.
Rustic earthenware in earthy shades, bamboo holders complement ornate steel cutlery and contemporary glassware. Avartana also features a Private Dining Room which can accommodate 10 guests with a choice of a bespoke meal, making it an enhanced experience in exclusivity and sophistication. The chandelier here is a beautiful rendition of the design of the cove of a quintessential house boat from the backwaters of Kerala.
In this refined dining experience modernity meets sophistication in every detail.
With a limited window, I indulged in the artful Bela menu, a gastronomic journey featuring nine intricately crafted dishes, each a masterpiece in its own right.
Chef Deepti shared insights into the culinary wizardry behind dishes like fermented Kodaikanal black garlic and beetroot-infused butter toffee, showcasing the restaurant’s innovative approach.
The charred eggplant sheets, a delightful surprise, encapsulated flavours and techniques that feel truly enchanting.
Embark on a culinary journey at Avartana with the global twist on double distilled tomato rasam, a French press creation marrying cherry tomatoes with black pepper and cumin.
The stir-fried chicken, tossed in fiery Guntur chilli, wows with buttermilk mousse and curry leaf tempura.
For a lighter option, savour the shrimp and coriander dumpling with sweet chilli coriander jam.
Cap off your meal with the delicate fennel panna cotta in ginger-infused angel hair caramel – an egg-shaped finale in this Southern Indian spice-infused symphony that will enchant your taste buds.
Avartana defies the modern cuisine stereotype with genuine taste explosions and engaging narratives in each dish – a refreshing departure from superficial trends.
While ITC Hotels have long upheld classics like Peshawri, Dum Pukht and Bukhara, Avartana’ s innovative culinary approach marks a bold triumph.
Amidst Mumbai’s diverse dining scene, Avartana has captivated discerning palates and quickly carved its place as a standout success story.
Pronounced ‘Avartan,’ this Sanskrit word refers to rhythm, mysticism and magic. Much like the restaurant’s name, the dishes are an expression of magical art, with each one featuring unique concepts in modernist iterations and progressive renditions while firmly being rooted to the traditional flavours and ingredients of the subcontinental India.
Hardly surprising then that, at Avartana, the culinary adventure transcends tokenism and elevates the dining experience to new heights of authenticity and excellence.
